Damn you harmattan!

While is kind of cool waking up in the morning, looking out and see a huge brown cloud coming after you and feeling the catamaran slightly lifting at the gusts of 28 knots, it’s certainly not cool seeing my fancy boat getting a shitty layer of sand that comes directly from the sHell station in front of me. But at least now I’m completely sure that the anchors are holding properly.

Today I figured out a local trick of the “aluger” drivers. There is an impressively dangerous turn, not far from Palmeira, that turns sharply to right, leans slightly outwards and doesn’t seem like the pavement is in best conditions. But most of the drivers do it full speed without any fuss. It seems they’re exploiting the trade winds, land lubber style. The turn is positioned more or less east, north-east, turning to south. When approaching the turn from the Palmeira-Esparagos direction (that is driving north east) you hit the turn to the right and get a substantial amount of wind to your port side. It seems it’s working, but I guess it’s kind of a gamble. Trade wind is constant, but not omnipotent:)

Nevertheless, I’m still here after many rides and I hope it will be like this in the new year as well.

People here are in constant party mood, even though it seems that the whites are now overtaking the “get drunk before dusk” monopoly.

For me, I’m achieving personal records of a different kind. Yesterday I gave up my daily pão de coco fight (it’s delicious and everybody wants it!) to stay on the boat and read all day. 267 pages is quite an achievement for me!

Today it was more laid back in terms of brain. Collecting my money and some shopping, back to Santa Maria to meet the boxers and have a beer.

Have to make my war plan for tomorrow. Starting with a proper shower. The one I use on the boat (Camp shower) is not enough for such a day. 

After reading about crazy christian extremists from the usa, threathening doctors who perform abortions I have this song constantly in the background of my mind.

Got to cut my hair and get a "real" job

Today I went to the capital of Sal, Esparagos, to withdraw some cash as I'm running out of euros and I want to keep some of them (you never know what the future have in store, maybe something worth buying)... I found out that there is no ATM that accepts my stupid maestro Not even those who say that accept it. I found out that this is a common problem of tourists and I can overcome the problem only if I open a bank account here.
And I don't like that. So I select option 2. Problems are only Problems when we define them as such. They are really learning events. As the saying goes...If it doesn't kill you , then it can only make you stronger.

I went back to the catamaran and started scrubbing the neighbour boats again. The other problem is that now most of the "rich" boats now left and there are only the poor crazy sailors left. Mostly French, who don't give a damn about their boats (at least it's how it looks like).

Problem? No problem. You have more time to sit and relax. I've learned that in Gambia and I must say it's a hell of a philosophy! So I'll just read my books and wait the work to come to me. So far I have enough provisions on board to keep me fed and happy for some time.

2nd. It's really funny to see a big strong fisherman whining as a 5 year old girl, every time a dog approaches him. People here are really scared of dogs and I have no idea why. They are really too friendly at times, but no way dangerous.


Ok, going to relax now...

If there is one thing I’ve learned from my travels, is that no matter where you are, there’s always gonna be a chinese shop nearby.

Lazy morning. Yesterday I’ve been in Santa maria to visit some friends and to check the local boxing training.  Playing football in the middle of the street right after body weight training was right enough to make me fall into my berth few hours after.  

That’s why today I’m too sore for anything. I’ll just clean the boat a little and then go to have lunch with Mustafa and Alfa. A Senegalese and a little guy from Equatorial Guinea, who earn their living with a small (but with an outrageously high rent) gallery/shop/apartment in Santa Maria, selling their art and artefact's from Africa. Nice guys, plenty of fun to be around.

Today is a special day or what? They started with the firecrackers very early and in a more generous amount like usually. It’s 8 o’clock in the morning god dammit!

European Christmas is boring!

I cannot believe how much moving is in the streets tonight. During the day it was quite quiet, then at 18 o'clock everyone got out, well dressed for the christian liturgy that was in front of the church. After that, music as loud as you can and everyone dancing and having fun. I love it. This is a true holiday. All the families joined together, young and old having fun on the street.

After visiting the salineras and a gorgeous hike around the crater I'm a bit beaten up, but I think I'll still join them.
Jesus Christ, thanks god you were born!:)


Merry Christmas to you all! May you all be good, healthy and rich in your heart.


Peace

In my new little kingdom

Today I got full posses of the catamaran named “We two are one”. As full posses I mean that I’m alone and I have to keep an eye on the boat, while getting food and happy&crazy paper in return. But the most important thing is that I have a very nice place to stay and I’m alone. But not today, it’s Christmas time so everyone is nice and nobody should be alone. So I’m in good company from morning, when I had a nice breakfast with my new skipper, through the day, when I found out with much pleasure that Juliano, a really nice Brazilian guy whom I met in Dakar, and his argentino-american crew came just few days ago. That was great news as it means I have a good party-wing man companion. At least for a few days, the streets of Esparagos and Santa Maria will gonna shake!

During the afternoon we met two Bulgarian men, both came to here singe handed and with an immense bag of sailing stories and experience. Tomorrow we all go to the Salineras for some sight seeing I hope…

This evening was also special, we had a nice dinner at the Panta. It’s their last night here, so I’m feeling strange. I’m gonna miss that boat and probably the captain as well, but I’m also glad I’m leaving it for new, fresh adventures. It will definitively keep an important place in my memory, good or bad, every day was a revelation to me.

As for the next days, I’m truly eager about what’s going to happen. I already have some clients in my new little business. Boat maintenance & provision supplier/consultant (I just made up this). It seems no Capeverdian thought about this, or they are just too lazy for that. And I think is the latter. Tomorrow morning, checking the probe and keel of a French boat. It’s not gonna pay as a hull cleaning (that’s on the list on Monday on a catamaran), but it’s a great start as it really gives me the will to keep on going, no matter what it takes. So far it was a joy ride and it doesn’t seem it’s gonna get worse soon!

This is really a nice Christmas, but I truly miss my family on this day. I know tomorrow they’ll sit all together and have a nice evening with delicious food prepared from my grandma. Man, I would really love to have some of that food!

Anyway, we’re here and today some locals told me”in Cabo Verde we celebrate from Christmas to the 2^nd of January”, so I say “when in Rome…”

Treasure island

Yesterday night we came to Boa Vista with nice weather in a very relaxed mood. Had no proper dinner.

Forget about that… Today I’ve got the opportunity to go back to the Lagaren and talk with the crew. Basically there was just Anne there. I’ve had the chance to discover more about that amazing and mysterious boat and I must say it’s a really cosy boat. The amount of different stuff on it is just unbelievable and as I understood, the lifestyle is just amazing. Treasure hunting abound the world? You need a diver, handyman, carpenter, mechanic or whatever? I think I join this boat without thinking if the chance is given.

So far, the biggest problem is my health. I have to figure out what can I do with my insurance and what can they do in Capeverdian hospitals… But I must say I’m very disappointed about my body (or mind?). I thought that it will handle more abuse.

All for me grog

We are in Cape Verde!

The weather is fine, the people are great, so great, I am seriously thinking about forget about the passage for this year and stay here for the winter. The surf is wonderful, a lot of kite surfing going on (makes me want to learn) and everything is sooooo relaxed it’s like I belong here. If you like long talks, a lot of fun, warm weather, beautiful beaches, clear water, people from all over the world and you don’t mind waiting for a drink (in an empty bar) for half an hour, Cape Verde is for you. Unfortunately, there is one not so great point and that is the salary you can get here… It’s enough to survive, but definitively not enough to finance future travels.

Let me do a short chronology about the happening in the last days.

I didn’t catch the Marlin, but I dreamt about it…

After the 14^th, when we celebrated Andrea’s birthday we went to Boa vista, where we met a couple of true pirates. I really hope I’ll meet them again, because they seem really serious about their very different way of life to say at least…. I’m sure they’re smuggling drugsJ

Then we left the crew and had a proper sailing day back to the Sal island. 3m+ wavees, sailing up wind with 5-6 bufours (20-25 knots). It was wet and shaky and with no Jane (the auto-pilot).

The new crew was coming so there was the general cleaning and setting the boat ready. After all the comments about the lack of tidiness from the past crew I expected that we’ll have les work (yes Thomas). When the new crew came there was some drama from the beginning. First, I smartly stuck my big toe between the dingy and the Panta, in the exact time when a big wave came (we were anchoring at a beach in front of Santa Maria). From the sound it made I thought that it’s the end of my endless summer, but it seems it got just sprained. Then some german stuff again that I don’t intend to try to understand, but all n all, they seem cool and we’re gonna have fun.

At the moment, I’m having some trouble to make decisions. It seem I have some chances to get a job here, maybe I found a neat Belgian catamaran doing the passage that’s looking for crew (I guess the decision will be taken tomorrow), the other chance is to stay on the Panta for one more week and then find a ride to Mindelo or, if I’m lucky, I get to crew on the Panta till Martinique. But I must say, that at moments I really want to leave and find another boat. Running a charter means you can’t really choose the people you stay with and on a boat can be quite hard at times.

I think I keep with the flow and soon we’ll see…

And today it’s Saturday and Palmeira (where we are at the moment) got crazy!

The BIG GAME

12.12.2011

LAT 16 04.680 N

LON 20 57.085 W

               

Speed: 7 knots

Course: 324

Tonight we finally got some action and luckily it was on my shift, that I conveniently overslept. The sheet of the genova broke under the strength of the wind and we had some hardcore flapping. With some nice waves and warm water, I got nicely awake and ready to continue the rest of my shift awake.

The past day I’ve lost a big dolphin fish, but about one hour later I caught it’s cousin I guess, so my ego was ok. To spice up the things, we had a Marlin successfully trying to take away one of our baits. I tried to save it, but eventually he got a firm bite and the sorry fishing line didn’t hold. My fault, should have let it loose for some time to tire the fish a bit more. But the adrenaline got pumping and I got all excited for the next day. Never got a 2 meter fish so firmly connected to my body and I think I like it. The fight for food is pretty exciting in the ocean.

I’m wondering how will it be in Cabo Verde…

Lamin lodge, part two

We’re back in Lamin lodge and it’s really cool to see Mokbar, Capn’ Russia, Eric and all the other jolly people that work or live in the Lamin creek. Yesterday we had a nice dinner with the crew and later I met with the night guards, having some tea and having fun. I like how easy they take every problem they have. “It’s not easy” they say, and then a good laugh. It almost seems like they’re joking. Or they really are. But it doesn’t seem like they have the easiest life.  Most of them with huge families and 2 jobs. Going home for the weekends. Maybe.

David re-joined the Panta, so it will be more relaxed again I think. And as I’ve sold my surfboard, I now have the chance to land (ALI BORROW?) one from him.

Me and the captain went to the woods to get a Christmas tree (joke), that we’ll use for some new kitchen furniture. Then it as time for varnishing and my second breakfast.

We finally left Gambia. Navigating the Lamin creek for the 6^th time, when out, direction Cabo Verde. The wind is blowing from north-west, so we have the perfect conditions. I just realised that I recognise the local fishing pirogas at sea by smell. Most of them have a little fire on board and they burn mangrove wood that was lying for some time in the water. It gets a really sweetish, African smell.

Dennis, about Microsoft word: “It’s like your mother-in-law. You have to live with it”

Leaving Salum river

Today we’re leaving the river. I must say I had quite some fun. Some say because I don’t understand german. I guess it’s kind of true, as I see some stress signs on the other crew members. But I hope this will pass soon or otherwise, I really don’t care. I have a good time with myself anyway. I just got access to the captains hard drive which means I have tons of new music and a new toy. A sea chart programme which entertains me in my free time.

So far I can say. The word of this leg of the trip is “shopping”, it was the main topic till now for some crew members. Shopping but not bargaining I must add…

With my chart toy I’ve counted 2650 nautical miles on the Pantagruel and there are still so many things I have and want to learn. But as for now it really seems like our trip will end soon. I’m planning to stay till Cape Verde which is 5 days from today and then probably a week more. Then I’ll have to reach Mindelo and start my plan to find a boat to Brasil.

The plan is. Go to Sal and find a ride to Mindelo. If everything goes just perfect, I’ll persuade the crew to take me with them, before we reach Mindelo. By the way, for those who don’t know, Mindelo is the last place where you can stay in a proper marina with peers, water and electricity, so it is the last station before the passage for most of the vessels.

Ok, back to the plan. If I don’t succeed, I still have to go to Mindelo, where I’ll have a look around the town, looking for the cheapest shops and other provisioning stuff, so I have some valuable information for the captains I’ll try to seduce. Then, go from boat to boat, ask for jobs, offering my favours and knowledge and hopefully find someone who will like me and take me to Brasil.

Taking the right decisions

Making love on a boat is not the easiest activity, especially if it’s full of people. But I think that everything depends on your will. Nothing is impossible.

In the morning we picked up Carlos and Ruth, two very nice Spanish travellers who’ve seen most of the world so far. It was nice to finally hear some softer language and listen to some finest travel stories.

Today we anchor by a wonderful little island in between of the Salum river and the Atlantic. There are some tiny waves… No swell. I have time to have some time in private and that means, work on the boat. I’m happy to see I’m useful and people appreciate my work (at least those for whom I care).

In the mean time, I had the chance for some snorkelling, but the visibility was about 30 centimeters so the only thing I could have a look at, was the hull of the boat. Inspecting the deep secrets of the Panta made me feel that we’re not indestructible, but solid. I say that, because from the last time we ran aground* (*it was right on the entrance of the river, trying to sail between the corridor buoys) we’ve lost a piece of epoxy on the bottom of the keel. But everything is good, there is still a nice piece of steel protecting the vulnerable wood. 

6.12.11

Worse things happen at sea

I was dreaming about the sea. There was a wave that jumped over the rail like a panther and took me to the bottom of the dark ocean. It was warm.

Then I woke up on the Panta in my little berth. We were on sea again. Slowly we were approaching the entrance to the Salum river. The buoy slalom was there again.

I’m trying to have a good time even though I’m feeling in conflict with some crew members. I think it’s only a personality clash. I hope we’ll solve this. We will…

The best laid plans of mice and men often go astray

4.12.2011

Leaving to Cape Verde today, finally I stay on the Panta for some more time. The new crew decided I can stay with them and I have the feeling it's gonna be as nice as with the past crew. Maybe a bit more expensive, coz our provisioning is composed of cheese, yoghurts and stuff you buy here for a really high price, coz all of this stuff is imported.

But, my seaman training is going fairly well and I'm eager to learn more. A sailors life is a cool life I must say.

I'm missing the past crew, but this is wiith every crew change, because there is just so many nice people in this world and spending time on sea with such people makes you really fall in love. 

Anyways, the connection is fucked today, so I will not write my emails and stupid things on facebook. Luckly I uploaded some photos on picasa yesterday, so I can post them today.

See you in 2-3 weeks when I'm Cape Verde.

Fair winds

The pirates cove

Lamin lodge mokeys

LAT 13 56.514 N

LON 16 45.618 W

UTC Time: 19:21:44

UTC Date: 1-12-2011

Yesterday we came till Banjul and headed to my dear Lamin lodge. I’ve navigated those secret channels 4 times now and I’m feeling confident enough to do it without the iSail I guess.

It’s a darkish place hidden in the middle of thousands of mangroves, infested with crazy monkeys and mosquitoes, defended by shallow, channels. The owner is a funny, half blind guy called Peter. A white man. There you can find the strangest people (stranger than in the CVD). People sailing for years, solo or with a dog. On tiny sailing boats or huge catamarans (that makes me wonder how they came there in one piece!). Drinking Sum-sum, a local liquor made of the cashew fruit.

When we came there in the evening, I wisely left the helm to the captain, so it was not my fault when we grounded (again). The orders were: “Throw in the anchor, we hit the bar”. And he meant the real bar. With cold beer. But as Israeli people say, misfortune always comes in three. So when we it the bar, the beer run out in matter of minutes (15 to be exact) and the third misshapen was that we had to leave very early in the morning, because we had to avoid the low tide in order to escape the muddy jaws of pirate creek. But this was hard just for me. My brain need some time to start operating in the early hours of the morning. So the real third misfortune event was, that the anchor winch got fucked (miss corrosion ate the wires) and we had to pull out the stupid anchor with our stupid hands. That was easy. I cannot think, but I can pull stuff whenever in the morning.

And as for today, we left Frank in Banjul and sailed to Salmun river. Here we’ll have dinner soon and then we leave to Dakar.

Internet in Gambia